In Which We Travel Through Southern Utah
In which we take a magnificent trip through Southern Utah.
Hoodoo at Bryce Canyon, with impossibly blue sky
LJ and I recently took a trip to Southern Utah. It was a fine, fine trip.
We left Cortez just ahead of a storm system. We were lucky in that the stormy weather stayed around the San Juans Mountains. We had beautiful sunny skies throughout the trip.
As we drove through the sage brush and juniper plains, we’d come across bluffs and cliffs and mountains that looked like they were poking through the skin of the earth. Like boney knees forcing their way through the rip in a torn pair of jeans.
These bones of the earth were more and more prominent as we descended to the Colorado River, until finally we were driving through a wonderland of narrow canyons, big cliffs, and shattered rock.
Laurie at Powell Reservoir overlook
It was very hard to keep driving. With every bend in the road, we’d crane our necks, “What’s that? Oh, we need to go there someday.”
Mountains on the way to Henryville
Our first real stop of the trip was at Capitol Reef National Park. We hiked to the Pioneer Register.
Laurie at Capitol Reef, on the way to Pioneer Register
Laurie looking up at the overhanging canyon wall, Capitol Reef
We only spent an hour or two at Capitol Reef - I wish we could have stayed longer. Seems like there is never enough time.
The drive from Capitol Reef to Boulder, Utah, was also stunning. An overused description, but fitting.
In Boulder, Utah, we stayed at the Boulder Mountain Lodge. You know how staying at hotels is often, at best, a “Meh. It was okay I guess” experience? That was not the Boulder Mountain Lodge. A beautiful facility surrounded by spectacular scenery…very kind, sweet staff. A pond in the backyard with coots and mallards…what a wonderful place.
The Boulder Mountain Lodge also had the Hells Backbone Grill on the grounds. Superb, mostly locally grown, food.
Our original plan was to stay for a night, then continue to Zion National Park. We liked Boulder Mountain Lodge so much, though, that we stayed for two nights, using it as our base of operations for forays to Bryce.
The next day we drove to Bryce. On the way, we traveled through the Escalante National Monument. This country is unbelievably pretty. We’ve got to come back someday to hike this stuff.
Canyon in Escalante National Monument
Canyon in Escalante National Monument
We stopped by Kodachrome Basin, a Utah State park. What a gem of a place this park is. Another place we wish that we’d spent more time at.
Bryce Canyon National Park was also kind of spectacular. These photos don’t even begin to capture the views.
When we were at one of the overlooks, we overheard a couple of other tourists talking to each other. One of them was recounting his conversation with a local rancher.
The tourist said to the rancher that he was really lucky to have all this beauty right in his backyard.
The rancher thought a bit, then said Yeah, I think so too. Until I have to find a lost cow in it.
The differing views of the same place made me think of that Dar William’s song, “The Ocean”.
When we got back to the Lodge, we had another (spectacular) dinner. We were in no danger of losing weight on this trip.
We got to talking with the gentleman who brought us dinner. He suggested that when we returned to Cortez, we should consider taking the Burr Trail, rather than just returning on the highway.
What a great suggestion, and oh, am I glad that we followed it.
Here’s Laurie’s video of the Burr Trail.
These photos and images really don’t capture the beauty, the magnitude, of what we saw. I simply cannot wait until next Summer, when we can explore some more.
What great country.






